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If you’re considering taking isotretinoin (a.k.a. Accutane, a former brand name that’s still commonly used) for stubborn acne, you should also consider adding the best moisturizers for Accutane to your skin care routine. “Accutane is very effective at treating severe acne, but it also causes very predictable skin side effects, due to how it reduces oil production,” Sandy Skotnicki, MD, FRCPC, FABD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor at University of Toronto and cohost of the Skin to It podcast, tells SELF. She explains that it’s common to experience dry, irritated, and peeling skin while you’re on the medication.
Using more hydrating, occlusive products in your everyday regimen can offset some of those uncomfortable side effects and keep your skin barrier strong and healthy, Alicia Zalka, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, founder of skin care line Surface Deep, and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine, tells SELF. Here, Drs. Skotnicki and Zalka share their top tips and product recommendations, including nourishing moisturizers, ointments, lip balms, and sunscreens.
Our top picks
- CeraVe Moisturizing Cream, $19
- La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5, $17
- SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel, $90
- Fenty Beauty Plush Puddin’ Intensive Recovery Lip Mask, $23
- EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46, $44
What are the side effects of Accutane?
The exact side effects can vary from person to person (lest we forget TikTok’s Accutane nose job theory of 2023). But here are the most common ones to look out for during isotretinoin treatment.
This is the hardest side effect to avoid because isotretinoin’s main function is to reduce your skin’s oil production. When your skin is depleted of its natural oils and sebum, it feels drier than normal. The most commonly affected areas are your face, lips, nasal creases, arms, and hands, Dr. Zalka says.
“If you’re not dry, you’re either not taking the medication or your body isn’t metabolizing it,” Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified New York dermatologist and assistant professor of clinical dermatology at NYU School of Medicine, previously told SELF.
Isotretinoin is an oral retinoid (a derivative of vitamin A). Like topical retinoids and retinols, it speeds up your skin’s cell turnover process. That process eventually improves your skin’s texture, but it can also cause peeling and make your skin more sensitive, Dr. Zalka says.
In this context, “purging” happens when your skin is newly exposed to an acne-fighting ingredient—like a retinoid or chemical exfoliant—and built up dirt, oil, and dead skin cells rapidly come to the surface. As a result, it can look like your acne is suddenly getting worse, even though you’re taking your medication.
Here’s the good news: “Purging is feared, but something I rarely experience in my patients,” Dr. Zalka says. Plus, if you’ve been working with your derm to find solutions to your acne for some time, you may avoid it altogether. “[Many] acne patients have been on various treatments prior to starting Accutane, and those treatments mitigate a chance of a flare when starting Accutane,” Dr. Zalka explains.
Post-inflammatory erythema
While taking Accutane (or in the weeks following treatment), people with lighter skin tones may notice pink or rosy marks where their acne used to be, Dr. Zalka says. “This is called post-inflammatory erythema, and it takes time to go away,” she explains. Using moisturizers containing niacinamide or azelaic acid can help with the discoloration, she says.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
If you have darker skin, you may also notice some discoloration where your blemishes were, Dr. Zalka says: “This is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and it, too, takes time to resolve.” Products containing niacinamide can help reduce the appearance of dark spots.
Birth defects, premature birth, and miscarriage
This is more a risk than a side effect, but it’s still important to mention when we’re talking about Accutane. Before you start taking it, you’ll need to sign a consent form that says you understand the risks and prove that you’re using two forms of birth control (your doctor can provide info on which methods are considered sufficient). Then, throughout your treatment, you’ll be expected to take a monthly pregnancy test.
Best moisturizers
Youth to the People
Polypeptide-121 Future Cream
Neutrogena
Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Water Cream
La Roche-Posay
Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer
Vanicream
Moisturizing Cream
Dr. Skotnicki recommends using moisturizers that are formulated to repair your skin barrier. They’ll help address (and prevent) any dryness, peeling, or irritation you’re dealing with. Look for products made with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, squalane, and glycerin. These are all time-tested hydrators and skin-strengtheners, so they’re pretty easy to find in both drugstore and high-end creams.
Dr. Skotnicki’s top picks include moisturizers from CeraVe and Vanicream, which are especially good choices for people with sensitive skin—they’re both fragrance-free and accepted by the National Eczema Association.
Dr. Zalka likes La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane Double Face Moisturizer, another ultra-gentle face cream, as well as Neutrogena’s best-selling Hydro Boost Water Cream. The latter has a lighter feel than traditional face creams, so if you find that most moisturizers are too heavy for you, give the Hydro Boost a try.
For a more luxe moisturizer, one SELF tester swears by the Polypeptide-121 Future Cream from Youth to the People (a derm-approved brand, specifically for mature skin). It contains firming ceramides, soothing aloe, and plant-derived proteins that can help keep your skin barrier strong.
Best balms and ointments
La Roche-Posay
Cicaplast Baume B5
Occlusive moisturizers are particularly helpful for Accutane-related dryness because they seal moisture into your skin and prevent water loss, Dr. Zalka says. “These products have a soothing feel and act like a barrier to irritants while locking in moisture within the skin surface,” she explains.
Both La Roche-Posay’s beloved Cicaplast Baume (Dr. Skotnicki’s pick) and CeraVe’s Healing Ointment (Dr. Zalka’s) are effective occlusives that’ll protect your skin from further damage. And, when layered over top of another moisturizer, they make a great final step in your slugging routine.
Best serums
The Ordinary
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum
SkinCeuticals
Hydrating B5 Gel
The Ordinary
100% Squalene Oil
A good hydrating serum can boost an already-moisturizing skin care routine without adding any greasiness or weight to your skin. One SELF staffer loves The Ordinary’s budget-friendly Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 blend and the splurge-worthy Hydrating B5 Gel from SkinCeuticals. While these products differ in price point, they share their key ingredients. Namely, hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5, which act as humectants by attracting water to the skin and retaining it.
Dr. Skotnicki also recommends The Ordinary’s Squalene Oil, which contains just one ingredient. Squalane isn’t just a stellar moisturizer—it’s also soothing and reparative. That’s why experts have previously recommended it to SELF for people with dehydrated, acne-prone skin, as well as anyone who deals with inflamed and flaky skin.
Best lip balms and masks
Aquaphor
Lip Protectant + Sunscreen SPF 30
Dr. Dan’s
Cortibalm (2-Pack)
Fenty Beauty
Plush Puddin’ Intensive Recovery Lip Mask
Inflammation of the lips (a.k.a. cheilitis) can be one of the most annoying side effects of isotretinoin. Luckily, there are tons of lip balms and lip masks out there you can dab on throughout your day (and overnight!) to get some relief. For easy, grab-and-go balms, consider the Healthy Beauty Award–winning and Dr. Zalka-approved Aquaphor Lip Protectant with SPF. Our tester called it their new “holy grail.” For another excellent drugstore option, Dr. Zalka also recommends Dr. Dan’s Cortibalm.
Lip masks tend to be thicker in consistency and more nourishing in their formulas compared to traditional lip balms, so they can be a huge help for extremely painful, chapped lips. Want moisture with a side of gloss? Try Fenty Beauty’s Plush Puddin’ Intensive Recovery Lip Mask. It won a Healthy Beauty Award in 2023 for how it easily resolved our tester’s Accutane-related dryness. Meanwhile, SELF’s commerce writer says Laneige’s buzzy Lip Sleeping Mask lives up to the hype. “If it had been around when I was on Accutane in high school, you can bet I would’ve been slathering it onto my lips nightly,” she says.
Best sunscreens
La Roche-Posay
Anthelios Mineral Tinted Face Sunscreen SPF 50
Colorescience
Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush On Shield Glow SPF 50
You should wear sunscreen every day anyway (even on cloudy or cold days or ones that you spend totally indoors). But this step is especially crucial if you’re taking Accutane, Dr. Skotnicki says. “The skin becomes highly photosensitive, which means it’s much more prone to sunburn,” she explains, adding that your sunscreen of choice should be broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. Her favorites are EltaMD’s UV Clear and La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios Mineral Tinted Sunscreen—both are mineral-based and sensitive skin-friendly.
Dr. Zalka says it’s important to remember to reapply your sunscreen every two hours or after sweating or swimming. She likes Emer Skin’s Fusion Shield, a water-resistant formula with a universal tint (it’s currently sold out, but watch the retailer for restocks). And for easy reapplication, she recommends Colorscience’s Sunforgettable powder sunscreen.
FAQs about Accutane
What products should you avoid using while on Accutane?
Your skin is already drier and more sensitive when you’re on Accutane. So it’s a good idea to skip other harsh or potentially irritating products like chemical exfoliants, scrubs, and topical retinoids, Dr. Skotnicki says.
Similarly, Dr. Zalka recommends putting in-office treatments like face waxes, chemical peels, or laser treatments on hold during your treatment too. These procedures can be hard on the skin and may slow down its healing process.
Is Accutane suitable for everyone?
Due to the risks around birth defects, you shouldn’t take Accutane if you’re pregnant or looking to become pregnant. Aside from that, Dr. Skotnicki cautions against using it if you have inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), because it can cause abdominal pain, nausea, and vomiting, per the Mayo Clinic. Isotretinoin has also been linked to depression and suicidal thoughts, although having a mental health history with these issues doesn’t automatically disqualify you from taking it. Rather, Dr. Skotnicki says, this is why regularly monitoring your symptoms and checking in with your doctor throughout treatment is so important.
Ultimately, you should have a conversation with your doctor about Accutane and any potential risk factors that could make it a bad option for you.
So, no, Accutane is not for everyone—and the side effects can be a real drag. But for folks who are well-suited for it and have tried other acne treatments to no avail, “it can be a life-changing medication,” Dr. Zalka says.
Related:
- The 8 Best Moisturizers for Acne We Trust with Our Oily Skin
- 13 Moisturizing, Smoothing Eye Creams for Mature Skin
- The Best Color Correctors for Tackling Redness
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